Age of climbing

I was out climbing with a friend one day.
And i was sharing my thoughts about climbing's "age".

I like looking at it this way.....


The day you start Climbing is the day you getting born.

which mean that for example me, there have been climbing trad for 6 years, so i'm starting in first grade this year.       ( Big steps! =D )
which mean i'm starting to be ready to learn.

like every body. the first 6 years of our life goes by learning to talk, crawl and walk.
learning every basic thing. that we need to know before we are ready to learn for real.

after that we start in school where we are gonna learn how to do things. starting simple. and then slowly expanding our knowledge. while we move up in the grades.

this may sound stupid. and when you look around, some one have done so great things. even know they are relatively new in the game.

but look at it this way.  climbing is like real life.

people are different, some people develop faster than others. some go in a class higher than they should. some go in the same class twice or more. you can choose to do things. or you can do them as they come. but bottom line is that your level of knowledge is still relativly the same. people just choose to use it different.  and some do this with good outcome. and some with the highest price

and unfortunately it's more often for the worse, when people try to be bigger than they are.. (like real life)


so what i choose, to take out of this, is that. we should not rush it too much. but neither stand and watch.
so if you realy want to do some thing, then you better get out there. but some time doing things. include waiting to you are "old" enough.


Climb wise, Climb strong and Climb long..!!


Peace out!

Summer 2013 is over

2½ Month have now past.  And i'm back in Norway.

Whit many new ideas. and many new experiences.

This is one of them.......

This is from the second try on this route. so i'm still learning as i climb.

the last while i spent Bolting and developing some Areas in Denmark. with some nice climbing.!

this wall is one of them.

with have alot of 7 and 8..! a really great wall. like 10 - 35 deg. overhanging.

rockclimbing.dk here can you see all the Topos for the climbign in Denamrk..!

i have all so been looking for a good project. but so far with out luck. :/
but maybe one day.........


In Denmark i was again this year a part of the "Bornholm Climbing Festival" with again this year was a really nice og fun.   and in the competition this year i came on a 2. place. and toppet out the final route. with i have the name "Golden crack". a realy nice 7b+ rute. with many diffrent kind's of climbing

you can see the finals from the Live tv covering. Here is the link, to TV2's stream.

we left Denmark the 13/8.  but i gonna go back.!!

i still can't get my head of the route i try in Orco. and i would like to return there again.
as soon as possible. but not this summer. :/

it's soon time to go back to work and back to all that. with's gonna hold me back for some time.
to i have some money again.

i have the film from "Lynet 7c+" and "Fessura Kosterlitz 6b" i just but out the movie's whit out doing anything.

Put this is all for now. then we see whot time bring.

Peace out

Lynet - kullaberg..!!!

after some days in Cadarese.
climbing some here and there.
and ending up having to little gear for almost all i would like to try. =(

so we did a few sport there. but ended when i ripped out one af the top chains. just by leaning back. then it was not rely so nice.............

so we endet up thinking we gonna drive to "Font".  but when we gade in the car. we endet up driving to Gothenburg (Sweden) 

but on the way here we hade a pid stop in "kullaberg" in south af sweden.
where i for a long time have wantet to try "Lynet"  7c+ Trad. which have first acent of a danish.

whit i endet up doing in 5 th. go.!!  so Pash.!!! =D

 i put a crash pad under the start. because i have big hands. so i cant fit my fist in the start. so i need to do some heavy layback in the start. which I could easily slide off.  so for the safty. and to do it good style with, all clean and NO preset gear.  

the first 2 try was with pre set gear. and the 3 other was clean led try's. placing all the gear and climbing all way up and topping out. 



so clean and NO F****** TOP ROPE.................


i have it on Movie and many other climb's. with's i gonna clip together after the trip.

All for now

Peace out..!

Orco Vally

Still in italy......

in the big Alps. at the "Gran Paradiso" national park. in Velle'dell Orco.

it's a fantastic place. with lots of cool Trad climb.  but my problem as one from Skandinavien, is that i can not climb in the sun here. in italien "pre" summer.  we did try one day. but hard sun burn after just 3 hours. so not fantastic. but the climbing is nice.  but the most climbs is South face. :/  

So i think this will be a great place to return to in late Autumn. to climb some of all the amazing multi pitch'es.  
but we also have alot of bad weather this day's with a lot of rain. so some day's without climbing. it is not that fun.  so here a few day's ago i we went to maybe try the only dry North face roof. in the wally.  with the amazing rute "Greenspit" (photo under)

I did try. and i did fall in Love....!!
it's an amazing climb. that i have to do.! but i think it's to hard for my current shape. so i will return for this.


But whot we gonna do the next days i do not know.  we will see what will happen.

there are more photos from the Vally. Here

All for now

Peace out.!

Italy

Again i see, why the Germans say "Kein plan, is dere plan"


we where in Cadarese for about 2 Hours before we drive to Finale Ligure. where we now have been for a few days. and climbing some more sport.
the weather in Cadarese was really bad. and look like it gonna be wet for a long time =(

And Finale L. always have good weather.! =)
but here is nothing special. just nice climbing.


here is some photo's from around.

France Areas

Cadarese - Italy

Finale Ligure -Italy

There is not so many yet. gonna come Later.


To finish last post about areas.

Remigny:

Very nice place. highly recommended and nice place with all you need. good climbing. nice peoble. and a nice place.  but for climbing 5a - 6c. with a few 7a-8a. but Very nice climing. in overhanging rock. (the hard is)


Plans for the next is not to go back to Cadarese. weather still look very bad. and it do not look like it gonna be better :/ 
so i think we gonna go to Orco vally. there it look like good wather. but a little warm.

but we see. now we stay here for a few more day's before we move one.

but i will post whot will hapen.
all fore now

Peace out.!

France !?

What the F***... France !?

Hmm 24 Hours before trip start. we changes the plans thanks to Weather.
so insted of going to Slovenia vi end up Going to Dijon In france. thanks to dry weather.

so we have been climbing in 4 Defrent areas here.

Saffres:
Half big area with about 400 routs on Limestone.  from 4 - 6c.....   but all the easy i "Sandback"
but living is okay. on free camping with WC and Water.

Vieux:
Small area with about 50 routs on Granit.  Rely nice place. with cozy surroundings. and very easy living. a MUST climb area for all 5- - 6c Climbers.

Cormot:
Half big area with about 200 routs on Limestone. not on my "must do places"..... bad Bolts. with LONG between, on the most Routs.

Remigny:

Don't now.. i go there later today =P


Photos gonna come next time i come online. (Sorry)

But Tomorrow we gonna drive to Cadarese to Climb some Trad.
and get some Italien "caffè con gelato" =)

but more about that later.

All for now

Peace out.

SUMMER !!

Time is up..!

For a new travel. and once again live the life to the full.
with the scent of freedom.

Tomorrow i will pick up my Russian partner Sasha Ovchenkova. from an airport in Denmark.
after that, we will drive direkt to Bled in Slovenia.

where we are planing to start whit a week of sports climbing. after that we gonna go to Cadarese in Italy. where we hopefully gonna spend alot of time =) 
to try some of the harder routs there. and do relly cool stuf. (we hope)
 
I have gathered some photos of the "big" project's of the summer.  i hope i can do just one of them... =P

Phote of "Turkey Crack"
in Italy

 from This blok

 

Photo of "Kölhalad"
in Sweden

Photo of "Projekt"
in Denmark

 

 

Then let see whot is gonna go down.
But one thing is sure. it gonna be fun.!!

And now im just done making my new car.  see the Photos underneath.

 

See all photo's here.!!

 

 

All for now. i gonna wright here all summer.
so stay tuned. ;)

 

 

Peace out

What is climbing?

Climbing...

What is it?

And why do it?

 

Climbing is a life style, which for many seems distant. You live like a Bum and live in some sort of simple hippie culture. In something there should emulate a green culture, whit green tobacco. Which is too wet to burn itself, so you mix it with some normal everyday tobacco and a filter tip of old paperboard. And then you get so much, that you forget to clean up. Before one overpowers himself and starts to do something about it. This mix of green and city noise. In a confusing day whit both ups and downs, with inner fights in both mentally and physical limitations.

Everyone believe they are most..

But most what?

Pigs there a pissing and shitting in the forest, or most green with the mix of the cheapest food, you mixing with organic when the money is there. So we are probably a kind of weekend green people who put everything at stake in a battle for the eternal buzz on the rock. You do and you are a junkie, in the fight for adrenalin on a piece of rock or cliff. if you like. In good Danish, a "motley crew" with each our reason and vision of life. But with one common goal to achieve the goal and the small-feeling that fills so much. Where the time stops for a few minutes of peace and karma. Before we move on after new goals and more....

 

So you can say.
Why do it when you know for some, the price is the highest?

What makes it worth the risk. Is it the feeling that life is nothing without, or are we all so naive that we do not think It could happen to us. Truth is that it could happen. But if you take care and if we are holding hands and together look to both sides before crossing the road. It's not much more dangerous then to live in the city. But there you do not think about it, because there it's only out out-coming elements there have our fate.

But is it?

We can still quickly run across the street to catch the bus, in front of the car which can't reach to brake, because the radio is teasing. It will indeed be the 8-figure there is not tied, because you talk to your partner about the attractive girls there climb next to. And then you just starts to climb and first discover it when you lean back at the top and the rope suddenly disappears. Well I suppose you could say that the case is we can make it dangerous. As the walk along the road. However if we take care, then it's only the many thousand years old rock there can fail. As the truck there do not see you in a right turn. Something we are not the Lord about. But even there we have been too close. so we must be aware. And look after each other in an otherwise warm and open environment.

Which is also my reason other than the rush. people are bum's half green and not least, one big family.

thoughts from a rainy day.

Peace out

Nordic weather

Hei There..!


Right now i'm in denmark. To spend Christmas and New year.

At the moment i'm not getting that must climbing done. As i would like.
but i'm trying.

i have been bouldering for some times. when it is cold enough
= which mean dry frozen rock..!  =D

 

 

I haven't been Sports climbing outdoor for a long time.

BUT i ordered some fly tickets to Siurana ( Spain )
which gonna be so nice.!
it's just gonna be 16 days of climbing so a short trip. but gonna be so cool.!

And may be gonna visit Margalef again for one or to day's.! to give that a second chance.

I gonna leav the 2.th of january, and then i'll be back the 22. 
Gonna be cool to come back there..!



Peace Out..!



Vandrefalken 9- (8a)

Never seen so much. but with so few words to say.

I let the pictures speak fore them self..........

Vandrefalken 9- (8a) trad protection.

is one of the most beautiful lines ever seen. on this 120 meter high rock. it's lige THE line.
70 meters long and on a 10-20 deg. overhanging all the way. whit to roof as well..!
it is one of thoes "I must climb".

It's gonna be hard.. but it gonna be don..!

i'll let you now. then i have it. one day..! =D

Peace out

Bornholm Rock Climbing Festival

I just been on Bornholm. a small Danish island, there is just a little south of Sweden.
where I have been to a climbing festival.

The island is lovely with beautiful scenery. and alright rock. it is not in world class but it's DANISH rock. and fore that we are proud. =)

like this place.

 at the festival, there have been many things that there have happened. but I only took part in the competition Friday. where tv2 (Danish TV channel) dit cower it all. and where I came in the finals. but I unfortunately fellt early because a handle broke. =/
but It's what might happen when it's on rock.
it whos a cool ompetition, whit some relly nice routs. and some nice people around.

I look forward to next year.!

but I never get use to those television people. but i stil think you should be able to see the finals If you want.

TV rebroadcast here.

besides that I've got First ascent on a traditional secured route.
with the name "En stjerne fødes" and has the degree 8/8 + (7c) (look up)
so that my hardest sent ever on trad..! =D so im relly happy.

it's a really cool route. there is virtually divided into two parts, of a plato. whit good but small gear. and a crack that you can't hold all the way.. but you move about a half meter to each sides of the crack all the way up. it have a really delicate Crux, on small holds whit loong moves.

tomorrow the 15/08 i takes out to Askfjell to try "Vandrefalken" 9- (8a)

i'm really siked about it..!

but more about that later.
this is all fore now.

Peace out

Norway

I now working and living in norway.

have been here fore som time now. and im planing to stay here for ever. :D
i relly love Norway and the peoble here. and the climbing is amacing.
i gonna spend all summer just fooling around on different climb's.

AND THEN...

in the autumn i gonna try a new projekt. that i gonna right more about when time com.

a 70 meter crack whit traditional protektion.
climbt only one time before.
call't "vandrefalken" it's a 8a..

whot be my hardest cent ever on trad.. and whot be so cool to do and try...!

here is a pic. of Bjørn Eivind Årtun. climbing "vandrefalken" its him there have the FA.


all fore now.


Peace out...

Home Sweet Home

So I'm home after 3330 Km on the road..

good trip. 2x 8a and a lot of other good climbing

nice trip i fore ever will remenber. whit a lot of nice peoble i hope to see agien one day.

gonna miss you all. an remenber all.

hope to go to turkey in april if all go good. to climb an visit Michelle KT.

time fore work and a place to live.. :)

All fore this trip.

the next trip gonna come, and i gonna right of it ;)

Peace Out

New numbers

so it is the first 8a

"La conexion pelirroja"
Desplomilandia - El Chorro - Spain

Nice.. Nice..

absolutely fantastic climbing. not quite my style because it is steep.

but any way I got It, even thow some mental starting difficulties.

5 days it took. the last 3 days I have fallen the same place .. but did'nt get my head with me.

the rest for clipping 4. clip are a bit sharp. is also the hand I fall in, in the film. there came hole on the second day and so it's just ben growing since.

this trip has taught me a lot. and one important thing is that grades are not a box to put people in, and should not hold you back. although we in Denmark all too often put everything in the grades instead of seeing it as opportunity. we see it as obstacles. and say we are not good enough. but why should you not be good enough.? who decides that?           something to think about

tomorrow me and michelle KT are out to climb "amptrax" a 200 meter long 6a. to have a fun rest day.

it's still great to have her here. i enjoy it very much and look forward to the next 2 weeks. where we must climbing a lot more hard routes.

I go home on the 13th of February.

still no work. or place to stay but I have to look at that when i get home.

All fore now

Peace out

El Chorro AND Danish

Hei all..

Now im here in spain in El Chorro. with the Danish "Michelle KT".
which just came down yesterday Thursday. so now wee have to step up. she must go here first 8a+ and me my first 8a or more.

so time will tell and time show.


but one thing is for sure two friends and a transporter are on tour.
so it is already doomed to be a fantastic adventure here in the last weeks of my trip. before I go home in week 7. to start earning money again. :/

but that the way it is. you earn money. and then you have fun while spending them and then suddenly you have to work again until the next time the wheel turns and we head off to new places.

but all fore now pictures coming soon.

Peace out..

El Chorro

I'm just arrived in El Chorro in southern spain.
where I am until I go home. and seems like I in Week 2 gets company by Michelle KT. which I look forward to.

just had a fantastic week with Sis (Ann) and Jacob.
where we have been holiday tourists. This has been fun.

All for now

Peace out and happy new year...!

Life's a travel

the thing about having a long trip away from everything known.
go out alone and take the plans day by day.
doing so that you meet many people on your way, as you might have it really cool with a week or two. before they move on. there are so many people who pass by, that you must be careful not relate too much. because you must remember the journey goes on. and tomorrow there may be new there pass by.


you learn along the way many new ways, traditions and language. and that is probably what fore me is my biggest reason to travel. the climbing is the big overall reason. but there is much behind it. which just makes you get a completely different insight into people and the places you are. and the background to them you are with and how it work where they live.


but I have learned what there makes me long for most homes to Scandinavia.

I have spent Christmas in Norway and felt it like home. but here in south are Christmas just not the same. and it can not replace a Christmas in Scandinavia. in Nordic wonderful coldness and ice.
one must be happy about whot it haw. and for me the north is the place to be at Christmas time.

so next christmas gona be home. :)
but its gone be good here as whell. the 25th is my sister an one of my broders coming down. so its so cool. gona be so cozy..

all fore now.

happy christmas all over.

peace out.. ;)

Margalef

Margalef..

some of the most powerful climbing I've ever tried.
have given up onsighting, my fingers can hold so i has startet to redpoint only. and climbing here only every second day. because many momo in 40-degree overhang is hard on the fingers.

and my motivation here is also slightly smaller.
but it is good enough. it's just not what I feel myself best at.

spain is getting cold. with temperatures down to the freezing point. and sometimes below. so will be good to go south later. where there may be a little warmer. I drive on the 25th December Early in the morning to Malaga where I going to pick Sis and Jacob at the airport in the evening.

All for now

Peace out