I'm a climber there belive.
That climbing is all about having fun.
And letting go of your mind.
While your body is pushed to the limit.

28 September 2013

Age of climbing

I was out climbing with a friend one day.
And i was sharing my thoughts about climbing's "age".

I like looking at it this way.....


The day you start Climbing is the day you getting born.

which mean that for example me, there have been climbing trad for 6 years, so i'm starting in first grade this year.       ( Big steps! =D )
which mean i'm starting to be ready to learn.

like every body. the first 6 years of our life goes by learning to talk, crawl and walk.
learning every basic thing. that we need to know before we are ready to learn for real.

after that we start in school where we are gonna learn how to do things. starting simple. and then slowly expanding our knowledge. while we move up in the grades.

this may sound stupid. and when you look around, some one have done so great things. even know they are relatively new in the game.

but look at it this way.  climbing is like real life.

people are different, some people develop faster than others. some go in a class higher than they should. some go in the same class twice or more. you can choose to do things. or you can do them as they come. but bottom line is that your level of knowledge is still relativly the same. people just choose to use it different.  and some do this with good outcome. and some with the highest price

and unfortunately it's more often for the worse, when people try to be bigger than they are.. (like real life)


so what i choose, to take out of this, is that. we should not rush it too much. but neither stand and watch.
so if you realy want to do some thing, then you better get out there. but some time doing things. include waiting to you are "old" enough.


Climb wise, Climb strong and Climb long..!!


Peace out!

18 August 2013

Summer 2013 is over

2½ Month have now past.  And i'm back in Norway.

Whit many new ideas. and many new experiences.

This is one of them.......

This is from the second try on this route. so i'm still learning as i climb.

the last while i spent Bolting and developing some Areas in Denmark. with some nice climbing.!

this wall is one of them.



with have alot of 7 and 8..! a really great wall. like 10 - 35 deg. overhanging.

rockclimbing.dk here can you see all the Topos for the climbign in Denamrk..!

i have all so been looking for a good project. but so far with out luck. :/
but maybe one day.........


In Denmark i was again this year a part of the "Bornholm Climbing Festival" with again this year was a really nice og fun.   and in the competition this year i came on a 2. place. and toppet out the final route. with i have the name "Golden crack". a realy nice 7b+ rute. with many diffrent kind's of climbing

you can see the finals from the Live tv covering. Here is the link, to TV2's stream.

we left Denmark the 13/8.  but i gonna go back.!!

i still can't get my head of the route i try in Orco. and i would like to return there again.
as soon as possible. but not this summer. :/



it's soon time to go back to work and back to all that. with's gonna hold me back for some time.
to i have some money again.

i have the film from "Lynet 7c+" and "Fessura Kosterlitz 6b" i just but out the movie's whit out doing anything.




Put this is all for now. then we see whot time bring.

Peace out


10 July 2013

Lynet - kullaberg..!!!

after some days in Cadarese.
climbing some here and there.
and ending up having to little gear for almost all i would like to try. =(

so we did a few sport there. but ended when i ripped out one af the top chains. just by leaning back. then it was not rely so nice.............

so we endet up thinking we gonna drive to "Font".  but when we gade in the car. we endet up driving to Gothenburg (Sweden) 

but on the way here we hade a pid stop in "kullaberg" in south af sweden.
where i for a long time have wantet to try "Lynet"  7c+ Trad. which have first acent of a danish.

whit i endet up doing in 5 th. go.!!  so Pash.!!! =D



 i put a crash pad under the start. because i have big hands. so i cant fit my fist in the start. so i need to do some heavy layback in the start. which I could easily slide off.  so for the safty. and to do it good style with, all clean and NO preset gear.  

the first 2 try was with pre set gear. and the 3 other was clean led try's. placing all the gear and climbing all way up and topping out. 



so clean and NO F****** TOP ROPE.................


i have it on Movie and many other climb's. with's i gonna clip together after the trip.

All for now

Peace out..!


24 June 2013

Orco Vally

Still in italy......

in the big Alps. at the "Gran Paradiso" national park. in Velle'dell Orco.

it's a fantastic place. with lots of cool Trad climb.  but my problem as one from Skandinavien, is that i can not climb in the sun here. in italien "pre" summer.  we did try one day. but hard sun burn after just 3 hours. so not fantastic. but the climbing is nice.  but the most climbs is South face. :/  

So i think this will be a great place to return to in late Autumn. to climb some of all the amazing multi pitch'es.  
but we also have alot of bad weather this day's with a lot of rain. so some day's without climbing. it is not that fun.  so here a few day's ago i we went to maybe try the only dry North face roof. in the wally.  with the amazing rute "Greenspit" (photo under)





I did try. and i did fall in Love....!!
it's an amazing climb. that i have to do.! but i think it's to hard for my current shape. so i will return for this.


But whot we gonna do the next days i do not know.  we will see what will happen.

there are more photos from the Vally. Here

All for now

Peace out.!

12 June 2013

Italy

Again i see, why the Germans say "Kein plan, is dere plan"


we where in Cadarese for about 2 Hours before we drive to Finale Ligure. where we now have been for a few days. and climbing some more sport.
the weather in Cadarese was really bad. and look like it gonna be wet for a long time =(

And Finale L. always have good weather.! =)
but here is nothing special. just nice climbing.


here is some photo's from around.

France Areas

Cadarese - Italy

Finale Ligure -Italy

There is not so many yet. gonna come Later.


To finish last post about areas.

Remigny:

Very nice place. highly recommended and nice place with all you need. good climbing. nice peoble. and a nice place.  but for climbing 5a - 6c. with a few 7a-8a. but Very nice climing. in overhanging rock. (the hard is)


Plans for the next is not to go back to Cadarese. weather still look very bad. and it do not look like it gonna be better :/ 
so i think we gonna go to Orco vally. there it look like good wather. but a little warm.

but we see. now we stay here for a few more day's before we move one.

but i will post whot will hapen.
all fore now

Peace out.!

08 June 2013

France !?

What the F***... France !?

Hmm 24 Hours before trip start. we changes the plans thanks to Weather.
so insted of going to Slovenia vi end up Going to Dijon In france. thanks to dry weather.

so we have been climbing in 4 Defrent areas here.

Saffres:
Half big area with about 400 routs on Limestone.  from 4 - 6c.....   but all the easy i "Sandback"
but living is okay. on free camping with WC and Water.

Vieux:
Small area with about 50 routs on Granit.  Rely nice place. with cozy surroundings. and very easy living. a MUST climb area for all 5- - 6c Climbers.

Cormot:
Half big area with about 200 routs on Limestone. not on my "must do places"..... bad Bolts. with LONG between, on the most Routs.

Remigny:

Don't now.. i go there later today =P


Photos gonna come next time i come online. (Sorry)

But Tomorrow we gonna drive to Cadarese to Climb some Trad.
and get some Italien "caffè con gelato" =)

but more about that later.

All for now

Peace out.

31 May 2013

SUMMER !!

Time is up..!

For a new travel. and once again live the life to the full.
with the scent of freedom.

Tomorrow i will pick up my Russian partner Sasha Ovchenkova. from an airport in Denmark.
after that, we will drive direkt to Bled in Slovenia.

where we are planing to start whit a week of sports climbing. after that we gonna go to Cadarese in Italy. where we hopefully gonna spend alot of time =) 
to try some of the harder routs there. and do relly cool stuf. (we hope)
 
I have gathered some photos of the "big" project's of the summer.  i hope i can do just one of them... =P


Phote of "Turkey Crack"
in Italy
 from This blok

 
Photo of "Kölhalad"
in Sweden


Photo of "Projekt"
in Denmark
 
 
Then let see whot is gonna go down.
But one thing is sure. it gonna be fun.!!

And now im just done making my new car.  see the Photos underneath.
 
 
 
All for now. i gonna wright here all summer.
so stay tuned. ;)
 
 
Peace out

07 March 2013

What is climbing?

Climbing...


What is it?
And why do it?


 
Climbing is a life style, which for many seems distant. You live like a Bum and live in some sort of simple hippie culture. In something there should emulate a green culture, whit green tobacco. Which is too wet to burn itself, so you mix it with some normal everyday tobacco and a filter tip of old paperboard. And then you get so much, that you forget to clean up. Before one overpowers himself and starts to do something about it. This mix of green and city noise. In a confusing day whit both ups and downs, with inner fights in both mentally and physical limitations.

Everyone believe they are most..

But most what?

Pigs there a pissing and shitting in the forest, or most green with the mix of the cheapest food, you mixing with organic when the money is there. So we are probably a kind of weekend green people who put everything at stake in a battle for the eternal buzz on the rock. You do and you are a junkie, in the fight for adrenalin on a piece of rock or cliff. if you like. In good Danish, a "motley crew" with each our reason and vision of life. But with one common goal to achieve the goal and the small-feeling that fills so much. Where the time stops for a few minutes of peace and karma. Before we move on after new goals and more....

 
So you can say.
Why do it when you know for some, the price is the highest?

What makes it worth the risk. Is it the feeling that life is nothing without, or are we all so naive that we do not think It could happen to us. Truth is that it could happen. But if you take care and if we are holding hands and together look to both sides before crossing the road. It's not much more dangerous then to live in the city. But there you do not think about it, because there it's only out out-coming elements there have our fate.
But is it?

We can still quickly run across the street to catch the bus, in front of the car which can't reach to brake, because the radio is teasing. It will indeed be the 8-figure there is not tied, because you talk to your partner about the attractive girls there climb next to. And then you just starts to climb and first discover it when you lean back at the top and the rope suddenly disappears. Well I suppose you could say that the case is we can make it dangerous. As the walk along the road. However if we take care, then it's only the many thousand years old rock there can fail. As the truck there do not see you in a right turn. Something we are not the Lord about. But even there we have been too close. so we must be aware. And look after each other in an otherwise warm and open environment.
Which is also my reason other than the rush. people are bum's half green and not least, one big family.


thoughts from a rainy day.

Peace out