I'm a climber there belive.
That climbing is all about having fun.
And letting go of your mind.
While your body is pushed to the limit.

18 December 2011

Life's a travel

the thing about having a long trip away from everything known.
go out alone and take the plans day by day.
doing so that you meet many people on your way, as you might have it really cool with a week or two. before they move on. there are so many people who pass by, that you must be careful not relate too much. because you must remember the journey goes on. and tomorrow there may be new there pass by.


you learn along the way many new ways, traditions and language. and that is probably what fore me is my biggest reason to travel. the climbing is the big overall reason. but there is much behind it. which just makes you get a completely different insight into people and the places you are. and the background to them you are with and how it work where they live.


but I have learned what there makes me long for most homes to Scandinavia.

I have spent Christmas in Norway and felt it like home. but here in south are Christmas just not the same. and it can not replace a Christmas in Scandinavia. in Nordic wonderful coldness and ice.
one must be happy about whot it haw. and for me the north is the place to be at Christmas time.

so next christmas gona be home. :)
but its gone be good here as whell. the 25th is my sister an one of my broders coming down. so its so cool. gona be so cozy..

all fore now.

happy christmas all over.

peace out.. ;)

11 December 2011

Margalef

Margalef..

some of the most powerful climbing I've ever tried.
have given up onsighting, my fingers can hold so i has startet to redpoint only. and climbing here only every second day. because many momo in 40-degree overhang is hard on the fingers.

and my motivation here is also slightly smaller.
but it is good enough. it's just not what I feel myself best at.

spain is getting cold. with temperatures down to the freezing point. and sometimes below. so will be good to go south later. where there may be a little warmer. I drive on the 25th December Early in the morning to Malaga where I going to pick Sis and Jacob at the airport in the evening.

All for now


Peace out

30 November 2011

Goodbye to Siurana

it has been like a home for the last 2 months with ups and downs but overall good.

but now it's time to move. and i take a move to Margalef where I will be until I will be in Malaga on 25 December
where I will meet my sister and one of my brothers that comes and have New Year with me.

Not must to say now.
got no 8a here. fingers are too worn. but 2x 7c and 1x 7c+.

so all good. go fore pokkets a while. :)

Good bye Siurana and
Peace out

18 November 2011

gradations and levels

It is strange with an area like this where 9 out of 10 climb's at least 8a
it's like a whole different world.
where almost all climb's 7a, just with the exception of lovers.

Daily you will meet many who pass by Siurana.
i med a little girl one day who had don 1x7c 2x7b and some 7a'ere and so that day.
I immediately think it was an active day and it was well done.
And further into the conversation she says she only goes onsigth when she is in a new area(like siurana) :O

people here climb daily 8b and 8c is often climbt.
it's crazy with the level here. but people are usually cool.

but unfortunately there is also that type here who think they are superstars and that they are everything
and just think we other are there to be like them.
But who want to be like a eko centric fool who always puts himself most.

that kind of people now and then can relly pis mee of.

But nothing els to do then to ignore them.
and laugh a little when they get taken down, now and then.


all for now..
im good and climbing is hard so all good. :D


Peace out..

14 November 2011

Rain Rain and more rain

Now we hit that time of year where rain take action.
So now there will be unplanned rest day. but from Wednesday I start to make retpoint here in Siurana with a friend I met in Verdon in France when I was there. we move into the woods so I come away from the car park which is really cool. so I can get some new air and an opportunity to be a little stronger again. Yesterday I toke a walk to Prades and back. which was a trip of almost 35 km. so my legs are quite sore today.

tomorrow it gona rain a lot. so there is no climbing. but Wednesday I start to climb with miles from New Zealand. and we may come to climb together for the next months if it work well. so it's really cool to have a permanent partner. :)

time will show how it all gona goes

all fore now




Peace out

09 November 2011

Climbing and blood

the last days here have been fantastic good weather and a lot of climbing. at half-wet cliff meaning than fingers get used down max fast. you can also have good days as yesterday where you start to see the sunrise in the morning from the car while rising up. and after a few hours it goes down to the rock of the day rock 'siuanella center" where you do a amount training. ending off with attempts 2x7a + not passed, and a 7b + which also did not walked in onsigt so you move on and end up a 6b and 4x7a onsight and the last route takes place that you binds in and just as you plungs on your last shoe the sun goes down behind the horizon and you rush on the last climb 7a and lead it quiet up onsight with delicious jams all the way up the 35 meter long route and you can enjoy the last of the sunset and then beginning to purify. on the way down the sky ends complete dark. where after you pack your things in the dark and getting ready for the 45 minute long walk back up the cliff in the darknes. that's what I would call a full day on rock. with wine in the evening and a go well deserved food.


and today is a rest day where I try to solve my problems with gas and get written mails. and all the practical things.

gas in spain is Not the same as in italy!  :(
but thats all for now hope all are great home.

Pease out

31 October 2011

Hvad er Klatring ?

Klatring..

Hvad er det?
Og hvorfor gøre det?


Klatring er en livs stil, som for mange virker fjerne. Man lever bumset og dyrker en form for simpel hippi kultur. I noget der skal forestille en grøn kultur , med grøn toback. Som er for våd til at brange selv, så man mix'er den med noget alm dagligdags toback og filter tip af gammel pap.
Og så får man så meget at man glemmer at ryde op. Før en mander sig op og sætter sig i gang med at gøre noget ved det. Denne mix af grøn og by støj. I en forvirende dag af både op ture og ned ture, med slagsmål i tanker, phyke og fysiske midler.
Alle mener de er mest..
men mest hvad?
Svin der pisser og skider i skoven, eller mest grøn med sin mix af de billigste madvare, mix'et med øko nÃ¥r pengene er der. SÃ¥ vi er vel en slags weekend grønne mesesker der sætter alt pÃ¥ spil i en kamp for det evige sus pÃ¥ klippen. Man gør og man er en jonkei, i kampen for adrealin pÃ¥ et stykkesten, eller klippe om man vil. PÃ¥ jysk en ”brovet flok” med ver vores grund og livs syn. Men med fælles mÃ¥l at nÃ¥ sit mÃ¥l og den lille føllese der fylder sÃ¥ meget. Hvor efter tiden gÃ¥r i stÃ¥ i nogle minutter med fred og karma. Inden vi gÃ¥r videre efter nyt mÃ¥l og mere..

Man kan så sige.
Hvorfor så gøre det når man ved at for nogle er prisen den højeste?
Hvad gør risikoen det hver. Er det følesen af livet ikke er noget uden, eller er vi alle så naive at vi ikke tror det kan ske for os. Sandheden er jo at det kan ske. Men vis man taget sine sikkerheds forehold og holder hinanden i hånden og fælles ser til begge sider inden man går over vejen. Er det jo ikke meget farligere end at bo i byen. Men der tænker man ikke over det for der er det ja kun ude fra kommende elementer der har vores skæbne. Men er det?
Vi kan stadig hurtig løbe over vejen for at nå bussen, foran den bil som ikke når at bremse, fordi radion driller. Det vil jo være som 8-tallet der ikke er bundet rigtig fordi man snakker med sin makker om de tiltrækkende piger der klatre ved siden af. Og bare starter på at klatre og først opdager det når man læner sig tilbage i toppen og rebet pludselig forsvinder. Tja man kan vel sige at sagen er at vi kan gøre det farligt. Som gå turen langs vejen. Man passer man på er det kan den mange tussende år gamle klippe som kan svigte. Som lasbilen der ikke ser dig i et højresving. Noget vi ikke er here over. Men selv der har vi jo været for tæt på. så vi må tage os i agt. Og passe på hinanden i et ellers varmt og åbent miljø. Som også er min grund ud over suset. Er folk bumsede halv grøne og ikke minst en stor familie.


thoughts from a rainy day.

Peace out an sory it is in danish.

rest days over..

hei there..

Now is the rest days all most over. so now I can start to project. if the weather gets good again. and I get over my cold.
it's not easy to keep as many days of rest without climbing my body pumps of energy. Just after 6 days without climbing.
but the fingers are very happy with it. therefore it must be good in that way with a lot of rest. on the imagery here, I have already had 4 days without climbing so the most wounds has fallen off and they are starting to feel good again.
have learned a thing. with of finding a permanent partner to project with is not as easy as I had hoped, when you want to go to the same area several days. so I struggle a bit with that. have found a lot lægre routes I want to have. but it takes time all of it. so we'll see how it goes.. :)

but I need still to new weather. more cold, no rain please. ;)

but.. http://www.yr.no/sted/Spania/Catalonia/Siurana_de_Prades/langtidsvarsel.html
not that good to see this.. :/

but time will tell..

all for now.

Peace out. ;)

10 October 2011

Siurana

stunning....

total and completely..

life here is at a parking space. but that you get use to. climbing is sharp and Crimped. and totaly my favorite of limestone to date. I learn a little Spanish every day. have no choice. here thay only speak Spanish. ore catalan actually. but it is okay any way, thay are patience. :P

down here I climb stable 7a + onsight. and goes like 3-5 of them per day, plus other. so feel rely strong at the moment. found some cool projects for when it gets a little colder. to day and week outthere shall be over 25 degrees. so it is very hot for small crimp's.
but expect to be here awhile. when I want I to project when I just get a little bit more strong.
Siurana the "town" is very nice. but it is completely dead.

there are no pic. jet.. but it gona come.

all fore now.

Peace out..

26 September 2011

Verdon og retur

verdon.............

Year where to start.
so large and so overwhelming.
will describe it with 3 words.
Scary..
Fantastic..
and so Beautiful..


life down here as free camper. can sometimes be difficult. and often ends up whit we just sleep in a parking lot after it gets dark. and still you have go to town to get water at least every 3. days.. :/
so you have to drive an move a lot. and spend much time unpacking and pack ..i would in the beginning like I did'tn have a car here. which can be really annoying some times..  but it's all so nice whit a tent on wheels.

climbing here is incredibly cool. and the slap and face climbing here is magnificent.
here are both single and multi pitch. and both are really cool. I have spent time on both. unfortunately there is a lot Aid climbing here. and where you need to put some gear.

and bolts. Well the bolts there is are really fine. but there are sometimes very far between. between 5 and 11 meters are usually on the multi-pitch routes. where 4-7 meters you will find on many singel pitch.
so one's psyche becomes strong with time.

You have to remember that gravity still exist. even though you sometimes dream it away. and break the law of gravity again and again.

but tonight I fly to Denmark and is there for 3 days. going to my grandfather's funeral. because his time had come unfortunately. so fly from marsei to CPH. so Friday is the day that I fly back and then drive south towards Lleida where I have to find some work to cover flight ticket and a little extra pocket money.


tekst for now..
Life is a journey. the journey begins the day you are born and ends the day you die. sometimes there may be a silents break and bumpy. but the journey goes on..


peace out